Domi Met the Devil – and Took a Bath Afterwards

A wild freeride adventure through the Teufelscouloir, deep into the Schöllenen Gorge below Andermatt.

A wild freeride adventure through the Teufelscouloir, deep into the Schöllenen Gorge below Andermatt.After fresh snow had fallen on Thursday, Domi decided to pay a visit to the lonely Teufelscouloir. What followed was a day of steep powder, abseiling, local legends – and an involuntary bath in the River Reuss.

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Freeriding the Teufelscouloir

The Teufelscouloir – or Devil’s Gully – is a spectacular freeride line that descends from Nätschen for around 1,000 vertical metres into the famous Schöllenen Gorge.

Far below, cars wind their way along the mountain road. Above them, we make turn after turn through marvellous snow.

The couloir becomes increasingly alpine towards the bottom. The final rock steps require a short abseil, but we are prepared for that.

Where the Real Adventure Began

The couloir itself was only the first part of the adventure.

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Unlike the snowy slopes above, the Schöllenen Gorge was not particularly wintry. The River Reuss was largely unfrozen, and the cold water gurgled merrily through the gorge.

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We soon found ourselves facing the same problem that confronted the people of Andermatt in the Middle Ages: how do you cross the wild Schöllenen?

Crossing the Schöllenen Without the Devil’s Help

Modern times, similar situation.

We preferred to find our way out of the gorge without asking the devil for assistance. After some trial and error, however, it became clear that we would not be getting out with dry feet.

At one point, the ice looked as though it might just hold.

Domi mounted his skis, took a running start – speed is your friend, right? – and a moment later sank into the cold water like the Titanic.

Yes, the Teufelscouloir has its price.

The Schöllenen Gorge has lost none of its wildness since the Middle Ages. Only the people living here seemed smarter back then.